Red is everywhere
The pervasive use of the colour red in contemporary fashion is a telling manifestation of the profound shifts and movements that animate the human experience. Its ubiquity from the catwalk to the urban streetscape reflects a yearning for self-expression and the assertive articulation of one's values.
Red has long been regarded as a colour of great significance, evoking various emotions, from revolution and political upheaval to passion and vitality. Its enduring allure can be traced back to ancient times when it was revered as a symbol of strength, courage, but also wealth.
“The colour has also been associated with power, and as power takes on new forms and meanings, so does the colour red.”
In art, fashion, and design, red has captivated the imaginations of creatives across generations as they seek to harness its bold character to make a profound and lasting impact. From Rihanna's oversized red coveralls at the Super Bowl Halftime Show to the MSCHF big red boots to the creative output of artists like Doja Cat, the resurgence of the colour speaks to a deep desire for self-affirmation.
Art by Louise Bourgeois, Dante Alighieri by Sandro Botticelli, Doja Cat opening Schiaparelli's Paris show
Rihanna stunned the world by appearing in her vibrant red attire at the Super Bowl. Her red, boldly striking and commanding appearance encapsulated energy, power and passion. Sporting her pregnant belly, Rihanna conveys a message of fiery confidence in fertility and femininity. This calls to mind the oeuvre of Louise Bourgeois, a French artist born in 1911 who relocated to the United States in 1938, whose work was also starting point for Kanye’s Donda album cover. Louise Bourgeois was inspired by memories of her mother, who passed away when the artist was twenty-one.
“Rhihanna’s look criticises systems of representation and social construction of gender questions, identity logic, and socio-cultural norms through the colour red, suggesting social relations between the sexes as a power relationship.”
Rihanna’s tribute to André Leon Talley with her overstuffed leather puffer made by Alaïa conjures up memories of Talley's strikingly similar Norma Kamali sleeping bag coat.
In the realm of haute couture, where art and fashion merge, the colour red made a striking appearance, particularly notable during the recent Schiaparelli couture show for spring/summer 2023, as rapper Doja Cat was seen adorned head to toe in red and studded with 30,000 crystals. The outfit was reminiscent of the red robe/cape Dante wore on his voyage through Hell, as depicted in his Divine Comedy: the inspiration behind creative director Daniel Roseberry's show. The show’s statement represents the real-life descent into crisis after crisis that the world has been experiencing in these last three years. Paying homage to doubt, Roseberry reminds us there is no heaven without hell, no joy without sorrow, no ecstasy of creation without the torture of doubt.
André Leon Talley for Ugg, Art by Louise Bourgeois, MSCHF red boots, Rihanna outfit at the Super Bowl, design by Loewe
In a similar vein, the MSCHF big red boots serve as a critique of capitalist mass consumption and the impermanence of trends. These boots transport us to a hyper-accelerated world that blurs the boundaries between real bodies and inanimate objects, forcing us to question the nature of reality and material goods' role in our lives.
“The colour red, with its diverse symbolism, questions power structures and the duality of human existence.”
This duality is reflected in the divide in society, navigating financial and economic uncertainty while simultaneously being exposed to wealth and abundance. Like Dante, who travels through the Inferno and Purgatory before finally reaching Paradise, the colour red reminds us that life's journey is a constant negotiation between the opposing forces that make up our existence.
Research by Basma Mansour